Qalandia: "Nothing prepared me"…

There was a “nothing prepared me” exchange on Mondoweiss this week –for example, see this post here, and an earlier one here.

Friends I know and other people who come here also have the same reaction — “I had no idea”, and “nothing prepared me” — despite the millions of words and hundreds of thousands of photos and videos which have been shot in East Jerusalem and the West Bank to try to tell the story.

Here’s another “nothing prepared me” story — a brief excerpt from a piece written for The Jerusalem Quarterly by American journalist Ellen Cantarow: “After 1988 I took an editorial job in the Boston area and didn’t return to the West Bank until 2002. A friend warned me that crossing a place called ‘the Kalandia [Qalandia] checkpoint’ would be a sordid experience. I’d read descriptions. But these hadn’t prepared me for the vast vistas of rubble, broken glass, jersey block barriers, trash, and snarls of razor wire that confronted travelers after vehicles dropped them on one side, leaving them to trudge the wretched expanse to the actual cement structures where the IDF soldiers waited. [n.b.- now, it is no less messy with trash and barbed wire, but it is closed, and looks like a factory, or even more like the entrance to a slaughterhouse, a terrible and immensely stressing people-processing monstrosity, through which many tens of thousands of people, if not more, must pass each day. It is impossible to know what will happen before on passes through. Tens of thousands of vehicles of all types must also pass through, or around, Qalandia, and sometimes become stuck by the congestion, making a real and dangerous living nightmare…] ”

The Ellen Cantarow piece continues: Nothing prepared me, either, for the vastly expanded settlements – a California sprawl of white identical prefabs with red-tiled roofs – whole cities and suburban towns. Nothing prepared me, either, for the disappearance of the familiar, narrow, simple road between East Jerusalem and Hebron, the one I’d traveled so often and with such certainty 22 to 30 years earlier. On my last visit in September 2009 I asked an interviewee in Bethlehem to point out the original road for me: he couldn’t … On my visits to Palestine since the second Intifada I have often been filled with feelings of instability and loss. Palestinian interviewees and friends told me they, too, experience constant loss of bearings. This is because Israel continuously gouges out Palestinian land, builds new highways and tunnels, and cuts off older paths in the space of weeks and months, creating ever-encompassing architectures of domination, imprisonment, and separation“…

This piece can be read in full here.

Qalandia checkpoint between Jerusalem + Ramallah: a "monstrosity"

Here, from the Institute for Palestine Studies TV (yes!) is an interview with an American professor (of Palestinian origin, apparently) about describe the disgraceful Qalandia [Qalandiya] checkpoint — or “border terminal” — between Jerusalem and Ramallah.

Asked to try to describe this large and terrible checkpoint for those who have never seen it, Professor Helga Tawil-Souri said the first word that came to her mind was “monstrosity” — then followed by “oppressive”, “scary”, “sad”, “absurd”, and “disruptive”.

Like other Israeli checkpoints to control Palestinian movement, Professor Tawil-Souri said, it has also become a transport, economic and social hub. It has also, like other checkpoints, become a focus of protest … from time to time.

Continue reading Qalandia checkpoint between Jerusalem + Ramallah: a "monstrosity"

Machsom Watch at work – at Qalandia Checkpoint

This short film focuses on Machsom Watch’s veteran observer Tamar Fleishman, and her work at the Qalandia Checkpoint between Jerusalem and Ramallah:

This short film, made by Danielle Shworts, actually makes Qalandia Checkpoint look much, much better than it really is…

"Qalandia is a parking lot"

The third day of the Eid, and a repetition of the situation that happened on the two previous days — no adjustment, no improvement, no responsibility taken by anybody.

This was predictable, and preventable — but nobody did anything.

Qalandia is again a parking lot in the mornings, and in the evenings, and at some times in between as well.

Again, anyone who has to move in or around or — God help them, through — Qalandia will experience the Eid from hell…

Qalandia + The Eid from hell

Qalandia checkpoint is the great bottle-neck between Jerusalem and Ramallah — between Israel and the West Bank, ostensibly. But, in reality, it is a huge bottle-neck in traffic between some parts of East Jerusalem and other parts of East Jerusalem.

Traffic got worse every day in Ramadan — as it always does. Fasting people do not make great drivers.

But, nothing, nothing, nothing compares to what has happened on the Eid — the three-day post-Ramadan holiday, when Palestinians go to visit their families and friends.

The first day of the three-day holiday is for the closest family members. This is an obligation that cannot be waivered.
Children get to show off their new clothes. After the special morning group prayer, families go to visit their dead in the cemeteries.

The second day is for the next in rank. Some stores and businesses reopen.

By the third day, people are more relaxed. But there is still a lot of visiting…

Now, imagine all this going on through Qalandia checkpoint — where there is one road with two lanes (one in each direction) on either side of the checkpoint, and one of those two lane roads also serves for those going around Qalandia, to ar-Ram, to the football stadium, or to Bethlehem, or Jericho, or even the northern West Bank.

There is no — repeat, NO — Israeli traffic control on the approach coming from Jerusalem. Those who think they are the strongest, and who have a total disregard for any of their fellow human beings, even other Palestinians, then start to pass, or overtake the line of cars filing towards the checkpoing — into the oncoming lane. The few cars or public transport mini-vans who do get out of Qalandia despite the four-day total closure of the West Bank then meet those who think they are better than everybody else, and gridlock starts.

Gridlock spreads quickly — because there is only one lane in each direction, and there is NO traffic control.

The two skinny Palestinians in unmarked uniforms and fluorescent green safety vests who were allowed to approach the checkpoint on the Ramallah side are not working — it is a holiday. No alternative arrangements have been made.

Tens of thousands of cars, many loaded with five or more passengers, are all trying to get in or around Qalandia.

Israel has built Qalandia checkpoint, and The Wall around it, in such a way that many, many tens of thousands of East Jerusalem residents are living on the Ramallah side. They all have Israeli permanent-resident blue IDs, and they all drive cars with “yellow” or Israeli license plates.

On Eid, they want to go visit their families in Jerusalem. Then, at night, they want to come home.

Many East Jerusalem Palestinians who live on the Jerusalem side of the Wall want to go visit their families on the Ramallah side of Qalandia, or elsewhere in the West Bank. Some want to try the new restaurants and cafes in Ramallah. Then, at night, they all want to come home, too.

So, the net result is total gridlock – and an Eid from hell.

UPDATE: A Palestinian friend who lives in Qafr Aqab (still, technically, of the Greater Jerusalem municipality, though it is on the West Bank side of Qalandia checkpoint) says he has often wondered where all these cars with “yellow” plates, driven by Palestinians, come from on the Eid. He says that he knows every car in Qafr Aqab and Semiramis, and he has never seen these cars before. He confirmed that the traffic situation at Qalandia for the past three Eids hars been as it has been this year — total stress, utter lawlessness, sheer hell.

Last night, I was driving in the slow (or right-hand) lane towards Qalandia. Both the slow and fast lanes were packed, bumper to bumper. We were all moving with the flow, as we could. It took me more than one hour just to get around Qalandia (from Qalandia camp to ar-Ram junction) — and that was record time for this Eid, from all the unofficial inquiries I have made.

But, during this time, some wise guy who looked too young to drive, in a big black car with “yellow” license plates, found a space to squeeze beside me, and then cut in front of me without any warning or signal. He tore off the front bumper of ms y car. A group of young men who witnessed this picked up some of the pieces, and shouted and ran after him to stop. But he did not. And there was nothing anybody could do. There was no law and order. There was not one inch of room. Anybody who stopped to deal with a traffic accident would cause an even more massive traffic problem, and would risk their lives.

UPDATE: I am told that this is a problem that “often” happens at Qalandia — particularly to women drivers, I was assured. The person who told me this also said that the Palestinian Authority has no authority over those Palestinians who have East Jerusalem IDs, even if they live on the West Bank side of Qalandia checkpoint (in areas such as Qafr Aqab and Semiramis), and cannot intercept or arrest them if they cause accidents such as this wise guy did to me.

In such situations, people could come to blows — or worse — at the snap of a finger.

And then, the Israeli soldiers would fire tear gas on all the stalled cars, and affect all the apartments and shops lining the street, and the situation could — and usually does — deteriorate again.

Only God can help in such a situation.

It is a scandal — and a shame on the state of Israel — to allow such a hazardous and demeaning situation to develop. And the Palestinian Authority does nothing, either, claiming its hands are tied, it is helpless, and it has no say in the matter…

4th Friday in Ramadan 2010

This is the fourth — but perhaps not last — Friday in Ramadan.

UPDATE TWO: AFP reported that Israeli police put the number of worshippers [at what AFP called the heavily-guarded Al-Aqsa mosque] at 160,000 to 170,000, while Muslim authorities said it exceeded 200,000. In his Friday sermon Sheikh Yusef Abu Sneineh criticised the relaunch on Thursday of Middle East peace talks in Washington, saying ‘these negotiations are a joke’. He went on to accuse Israel of seeking normalisation with the Arab and Muslim world while ‘continuing its colonisation’ of the occupied West Bank through the building of Jewish settlements … Israel limited access to the compound to men over the age of 50, women over the age of 40 and children, and only granted visiting permits to a limited number of Palestinians from the occupied West Bank”. This report is posted here.

Next Friday will probably be the first day of the three-day post-Ramadan Muslim holiday, or Eid (often translated  as “feast”).   But, if the new crescent moon is not spotted by experts in Saudi Arabia, or Egypt, or somewhere nearby, then it will be the fifth Friday in Ramadan 2010…

But, Israeli military permits to allow West Bank Palestinians to go to pray — as they most fervently wish — at the revered Al-Aqsa Mosque in the Old City of East Jerusalem (a big exception to the general ban on entry of West Bank Palestinians, except those with work permits, or other categories of exception,  during the rest of the year)  are given only for four Fridays in Ramadan…

A photo essay published by Ma’an News Agency showing the conditions of passage for Palestinian worshippers with special prayer permits during one of the Fridays in Ramadan has been published here.

UPDATE THREE: Ma’an has just published another photo essay from today’s conditions of passage for Palestinian worshippers at the main Bethlehem checkpoint, here. The accompanying text reported that “Checkpoints around the West Bank were again overwhelmed, with tens of thousands of men and women lining up from the early hours of the morning, waiting to access Jerusalem”. Yes, “the checkpoints were again overwhelmed” — and the people were totally stressed.

But, today, this is it — the annual opening of the gate to the general Palestinian public (though, it must be said, only for those who fulfill whatever the latest specified criteria might be, such as married men over a certain age, whether 45 or 50, and for women over a certain age, like 35 and married, e.g.) — for this year.

But, it was no longer a surprise that, at 07:30 this morning (an hour and a half after Qalandia opened for passage of Palestinian worshippers, specified humanitarian cases, and workers), an SMS came announcing tighter special restrictions for entry into the Old City today [probably due to the attacks for the past three nights on cars in which Israeli settlers were driving in the West Bank].

Every year for the past five years or so that The Wall and associated checkpoint restrictions have been an enormous obstacle to Palestinian passage, the last Friday in Ramadan has always been the most difficult and restrictive.

Last year, for example, the Israeli military cancelled overnight permits they had issued weeks before. When Palestinians arrived, some unaware of the decision, some saw their permits pocketed, or torn into pieces in front of their faces, by Israeli Border Police.

UPDATE: The Israeli military has just apparently decided to extend the prayer permits it issued for today to have validity also on Sunday, which will be Laylat al-Qadr (the Night of Power, a specially holy day that occurs at some point during the last ten days of Ramadan).

UPDATE ADD: However, the U.S. Consulate General in Jerusalem has issued a Warden Message informing recipients that “Due to heightened tensions and increased security presence after the August 31 and September 1 attacks in the West Bank, the U.S. Consulate General in Jerusalem has prohibited all Consulate personnel from personal travel to the West Bank, including along routes 1 and 90 and on the Allenby Bridge, Saturday-Monday, September 4-6, 2010. Due to the large crowds expected in the Old City, the U.S. Consulate General in Jerusalem is also prohibiting Consulate staff from visiting the Old City Sunday-Monday September 5-6, 2010”.

Laylat al-Qadr was mentioned a number of times in the Friday prayer sermon given by the PA (Palestinian Authority) Minister of Awqaf, Mahmoud al-Habbash, broadcast on Palestininian TV. This week, Palestine TV showed the Friday prayer and sermon that was held in a mosque in Ramallah. Unlike others who have been shown giving a Friday prayer sermon on Palestine TV, Habbash spoke without prepared notes. His sermon, however, was particularly tied into recent news events, including the talks held in Washington over the past two days. “President Obama talked only about Israeli security”, Habbash complained.
He also seemed to be urging Palestinian President Mahmoud Abbas to take up an offer made a couple of months ago by Israeli Prime Minister Benyamin Netanyahu — who offered to come even to Ramallah for talks. After this, there were hints in the Israeli media that military restrictions on Israeli travel into the West Bank — even to Areas A, supposedly under total PA security control — might be lifted [though the attacks, by as-yet-unidentified assailants, on cars driven by Israeli settlers in the West Bank over the last three nights might, or might not, modify this leaked proposal].

In any case, Habbash seemed to be saying that Abbas should insist, and shoulid issue his own invitation, and should open the way, for a visit to the West Bank by Netanyahu — so that Netanyahu can see for himself the conditions of occupation under which Palestinians are living.

Qalandia on the first Friday of Ramadan (2010)

Since The Wall became a massive presence in the Palestinian West Bank a few years ago, and since Qalandia Checkpoint between Jerusalem and Ramallah (and the rest of the central and northern West Bank) grew to large proportions, it has become a major center of human activity on Fridays during the month of Ramadan, when Muslims fast for more than half of each day (from two hours before dawn until after sunset, when it is no longer possible to distinguish between a white and a black thread).

Each year, the arrangements have been different. There has been some effort at “improvement” from the Israeli side — and the results illustrate how difficult it is to improve anything through military regulation of human behavior.

For, how can you “improve” measures designed to restrict Palestinians from going to pray at Al-Aqsa Mosque on the esplanade known as Haram ash-Sharif in the Old City of East Jerusalem?

Continue reading Qalandia on the first Friday of Ramadan (2010)

Is God listening?

Via mondoweiss, here, a striking performance by American artist Emily Henochowicz, who had joined a demonstration of women and was with a small group carrying a Turkish flag to protest the Israeli naval assault on the Freedom Flotilla on 31 May, running across the Ramallah entrance of the terrible Qalandia checkpoint when she was shot in the face by a teargas cannister. As a result, she lost an eye. See our earlier posts here, including this one.

Emily wrote and recorded this song, entitled “I miss you, Palestine”, and put it up on Youtube (under her nom de plume, Thirstypixels), and added this explanation: “The week I got home, I got my energy back, and I was giddy with the joy of being alive. I walked my dog and bellowed out this song in the woods. I’m no musician, but the soul of the moment carried my voice. When I came home I got out my computer and recorded this in a message for my good friend Nick… but what the heck, I want to give it to the world! Also, if someone could remix this or re-sing this with piano, that would be brilliant“.

“Because I changed, people can change”, Emily sings in her song. “It ain’t gonna go on forever … I believe it can get better, if people just open their eyes”…

Is Qalandia checkpoint high-tech?

Reema Hammami has called the disgraceful concrete and steel Qalandia Checkpoint between Jerusalem and Ramallah high-tech. Is it?

A report published in February – March of this year on “TRACKING CORPORATE COMPLICITY IN THE OCCUPATION OF PALESTINE”, part of the Corporate Watch website here, says this:  “Qalandiya Terminal, the crossing between East Jerusalem and Ramallah, is often the first military checkpoint visitors cross when entering the West Bank. During the second intifada, the Israeli state began transforming the old Qalandiya checkpoint into a ‘terminal’, similar to an international border. The process has cost between $32 and $34 million and has delivered hefty profits to the contractors involved”…

Does this make it high-tech?

Continue reading Is Qalandia checkpoint high-tech?

Qalandia Checkpoint: warping strategies of adaptation – cont'd

This is Part Two, a continuation of extended excerpts from Reema Hammami’s article (from the Spring 2010 issue [No. 41] of Jerusalem Quarterly, edited by the estimable Salim Tamari), on the growth and tightening of Qalandia checkpoint — which has now become a “border terminal” between Ramallah and Jerusalem.

Her article continues: “But how was order created from chaos? … If we take just one small part of the organizing needs of the checkpoint – public transport on it’s northern [Ramallah] side – we might get a sense of what is involved. Walid, in his forties from the [Qalandia refugee] Camp, was a main transport organizer for five years on the Ramallah side of the checkpoint. Like many of the checkpoint workers, he had spent years working in construction in Israel before the checkpoints put him out of work so he began to operate a secondhand unlicensed van. He describes what happened when the checkpoint was made at Qalandiya:

    In the beginning it was a mess, drivers would come, there was no turn, nowhere to stand, the strong one would eat the weak one. So in the Camp we decided that we should organize it, we made a subcommittee and decided to make a stand, you know for the vans and to try organize the situation of turns. In the beginning it was all voluntary, each day a group of guys from the camp would come down and try and organize. But it didn’t work – drivers didn’t get to know them or build a relationship because it was different guys from day to day. And there were problems happening everyday, you know people fighting for turns– you needed to enforce things. So we said, we have to make a permanent group – nine guys – and they’ll take ten shekels a day from the drivers to use the stand and for the other services – the money was equivalent of half a load of people. We’d pay some to the organizers and the rest we donate to the committee. We got the political organizations in the camp to come down and speak to the drivers, to give us some legitimacy. Abu Wagih the owner of the quarry donated gravel and we fixed up a stand on the empty land about 20 meters from where the soldiers stand. And we made a system, each location together, each one by turn, one of them breaks the rules, jumps his turn and we punish him – he can’t come for a day, he gets in a fight – that’s it, he misses a day two days or he harasses the girls passing we send him off for a week. But it didn’t last – the soldiers kept running us out. strong>The soldiers would come by and start shouting over the microphone and say that’s it all of you move out or we’ll shoot – and it’s a disaster – you can’t move all at once – two three hundred vans, and they’re firing tear gas into the windows, breaking windows. …

Continue reading Qalandia Checkpoint: warping strategies of adaptation – cont'd